Peace Corps Part deux: Moroccan Nights

Mandatory Disclaimer: The contents of this website are mine personally and do not reflect any position of the U.S. government or people, the Mauritanian government or people, or the Peace Corps.

Tuesday, March 3, 2009


I am back in Tdjikja, after a brief vacation in the promised land (Senegal), for a softball tournament and I have to say that I really enjoy being back at site. While, I have faith that work will continue to be slow, I am starting to feel established in the community and everyday Tdjikja becomes more like home.

One interesting side effect of becoming more established and improving my language and the cultural awareness is that now I am more alert to people being mean, either to me or to other people. Insults, conversion attempts, or simply actions that are inappropriate in this culture might have once passed by my naïve eyes in a blur of lightning-fast language. As I live here longer, I am getting better, (although I am still very far from perfect or even stellar), at understanding the insults, following the logic (if you can call it that) of the conversion attempts and generally becoming more aware of when someone is being insulted.

It is difficult to describe the air of jubilation that fills Mauritanian volunteers as we cross the border into Senegal into what feels like another world. We leave behind all of the frustrations of futile work in the middle of desert as we try and squeeze every last drop of fun out of our time in Senegal. This time we were in Dakar, the capital of Senegal and a surprisingly modern city of 8+ Million people, for a softball tournament, fitting titled WAIST (add an ed to the end if you are confused about the reason for the tournament). Peace Corps Volunteers from several West African countries as well as a handful of other random teams compete in the U.S. embassy sponsored tournament. The fields were incredible; the pool was beautiful and after 8 months in the Islamic Republic of Mauritania being able to order a cold beer from the bar was about as much as I could possibly ask for. And to top it all off I got to play a real game of Frisbee. Most of you reading this blog are probably aware of my unhealthy obsession with this sport. Yes I have been able to throw the Frisbee around occasionally here and I have even had some pickup games with other volunteers but never anything resembling an actually game. Between the other volunteers and a couple of American expatriates living in Dakar we were able to get together a decent game. When everyone ran into the center of the field to form a stack I nearly cried. I missed a diving lay-out catch in the end-zone but simply laying out was enough to bring a huge smile to my face.

Traveling in West Africa is certainly different than traveling in say western New York. I will use two examples to illustrate the difference: one example is mishwii and the other is the border crossing between Senegal and Mauritania. After a 5:00 clock departure from our hotel in Dakar we reached the garage in Rosso Senegal by mid-afternoon. Interestingly enough there is a town called Rosso Senegal directly across the Senegal River from Rosso Mauritania. Taxi’s that travel between cities will only drive between the garages of those cities. Think of a garage as a combination, bus stop/ taxi stand/restaurant/market much like a Senegalese Penn Station. We got out of our taxies which was not in walking distance from the river (Yes, Dad I know that anywhere is walking distance if you have the time, but we were tired from the 5:00 am departure). About two dozen Senegalese men surrounded the taxi and just started shouting various languages at us to see what we would respond too. English? Francaise? Espagnol? Pulaar? I chose to speak Hassiniya to gain some local credibility found someone that spoke Hassiniya and negotiated the price for a horse cart to take us to the river crossing. Three of us and an adolescent Senegalese boy climbed into the horse cart throwing our bags on the back of the cart. We held on to our bags with one hand and the cart with the other as we covered the distance to the river. Once we got to the river we hopped into a large canoe with about 30 of our closest Senegalese and Mauritanian friends for the short trip across the Senegalese River back to Mauritania. Travel tip: don’t do border crossings at lunch time. Upon reaching Mauritania we had to wait an hour and a half for the inspector to return from lunch and stamp our passports.

The most delicious part of traveling in Mauritania is Mishwii. On the overnight drive from Nouakchott to Tdjikja one usually stops along the way to eat Mishwii or barbequed meat. The driver usually pays for a plate to feed everyone in the taxi. Mishwii poses no dilemma for this carnivore as there is literally nothing but barbequed meat straight from the goat (you can recognize just about every body part) and a few scraps of bread which most of the men actually turn up their noses at and don’t finish. Someone will just cut the meat off of the bones into bit size pieces and everyone grabs little pieces of meat until everything including the bone marrow is gone, then everyone washes the meat down with the customary three cups of tea and then resumes the rest of the journey slightly more content and with much fuller stomachs.

By the way if any of you are interested in learning a little bit more about my experience there is an excellent book called Feeding Desires by Robin Penenoe (not sure on the spelling). She is an anthropologist who did here research with a group almost exactly like the Moors of Mauritania. Almost all of the words she uses are the same as Hassiniya, and her analysis and descriptions are very insightful.


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